Brief:
Make Hemp Smart
Cloth:
Hemp Linen - THS
6 oz Fine Hemp Linen. Natural.
Lining - The Lining Company
Hummingbirds. Viscose.
Bespoke
Notes:
I've been pretty vocal about how much I prefer winter clothes but I LOVED making this suit. Firstly I’ve always been a fan of double-breasted. Secondly it’s made of hemp!
I had never worked with hemp before and didn't know how it would handle - but it was a dream to work with. It was a little slippery to cut as it’s silkier than traditional linen but a sharp piece of chalk and some good weights helped.
Ed wanted to experiment with using hemp in more formal clothing to dispel the myths that it is only good for shapeless sacks. Mission accomplished I’d say.
The tapered trousers with a strap and buckle can be worn with just a white shirt for a relaxed look but I love it as a two-piece. The peak lapels and broad shoulders balance out the straight waist and hips for a really flattering silhouette. There are those who think double-breasted only works on formal suits but if it is generously cut and softly-tailored it can be just the thing for the summer season.
Although I think a sandy linen suit is a summer staple, the creasing can annoy some. Hemp linen has a weathered look but it doesn’t seem to develop the same sharp lines as flax linen so the overall aesthetic is much more pleasing.
Ed opted for a brightly coloured lining so we kept the cloth in its natural colour, but it takes dye really well so next time I’d be keen to explore that more. I’m definitely looking forward to working with it again.
