There haven’t been a huge amount of dramatic changes in menswear over the last hundred years - so it becomes all about the attention to detail: Lapel width, jacket length, stripes vs checks. The 90’s was all about the 3 button jacket. This near-on vanished in the 00’s as Tom Ford's Neapolitan slim cuts reigned supreme.
But in recent years I have seen a little resurgence in the 3-button jacket. So if you are looking to channel your inner Toby Zeigler, here are a couple of things to think about.
1. How long do you want to wear it for?
Think about how long you want to wear this suit. Is it a trendy, contemporary garment or an investment?
If you want the suit to last as long as possible without looking dated, I'd consider a 3 roll 2, meaning it has 3 buttons but the lapel is set to roll at the second button so it can be worn either way. Far more versatile.
But, if you have been inspired by recent style trends then GO BIG. Embrace the 3-button. Wear it with pride, in a long cut jacket and wide leg trousers. Pick a heritage check in a soft flannel with windowpane overlay in a pop of colour.
2. What kind of cloth do you want?
The cloth you choose will also slightly determine how you can wear it. A high-cut 3 button jacket in a warm tweed can be a really smart alternative to an overcoat. Alternatively, a navy worsted will be more Pierce Brosnan era Bond. Both very cool, but very different looks.