Tailor's Note: April 2021 - Which pocket style is for you

These notes are based off conversations with customers and are designed to help make the process of working with a tailor a little more familiar.
 

Disclaimer: These ideas are based solely on my opinion, please feel free to ignore, flout and disobey at every opportunity.

 
First of all can I say it is an absolute blooming joy to be open again. I am so so grateful to everyone who has come in over the last 2 weeks. It has been non-stop and I am walking on air! 
Now for the important stuff. Pockets. 
This has been a near universal topic of discussion for customers over the last fortnight so I thought a quick round up of the most common options might be helpful. I've ranked them from least to most formal: 

Patch 

Interestingly, this is the original pocket. Before the humble patch, men (and women but less commonly) held their possessions together in a small purse on a belt. Think 16th Century fanny packs. But thieves found them remarkably easy to pinch so people began to start hiding their valuables closer to their bodies, asking clothes makers to sew their purses directly onto their clothes. And thus the patch pocket was born. 

As a result of the simplicity required to install a patch pocket, it is considered the least formal. It is a really good option for someone looking for versatility in their tailoring. A coat with patch pockets can easily be worn with jeans or chinos as well as part of a full suit. Plus patch pockets are roomy and practical.

Patch Pockets

Straight with a flap

This is the option seen most often, particularly on RTW suits. It is particularly useful for people who use their outside pockets because over time heavy use can cause pockets to sag a little. The flap will hide that wear and tear, keeping a coat looking smarter for longer. Although this pocket can look really smart, it is also very practical - you can throw in a wallet, keys, a phone etc (disclaimer: heavy items may affect the line of the jacket after time) so it is appropriate for both a formal work suit and more casual looks.

Slanted with a flap

This slanted variation was invented for hacking jackets. The slanted angle made it easier to get into whilst on a horse. There is a theory that the angle draws the eye up towards the waist which is the narrowest part of you, and therefore is more flattering than the straight pockets. I'm not sure I buy that, but it can be a really nice alternative to the straight pockets. 

Straight Pockets with Flaps

Straight Jetted

I never encourage this type of pocket unless you don't use them. This type of pocket should probably be sewn up to discourage heavy items being thrown in and ruining the shape of them. As such I would only really put them in very formal garments like a Dinner Jacket. The jetted pocket is very discreet which is great for something streamlined and probably quite form fitting like a Tux. 

Jetted Pockets

Ticket pocket
This is the little pocket which sits above the righthand pocket. It is a smaller version of whichever style you chose. 
I have mixed feelings about these. I initially found them to be a little messy, particularly if you have opted for a shorter jacket style. And my general rule of thumb would be to discourage people from selecting them unless they are quite broad chested and tall. Otherwise the front panel of the jacket can quickly feel cluttered or squashed. 
I hope this is helpful. If you have any questions don't hesitate to leave them in the comments or send us an email at info@kipperandchalk.com 

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