Over the last few years I have noticed a growing trend for black tie weddings in the UK. Perhaps this is an American media influence, perhaps it is a hunt for something more special than a business suit but less costume-y than Morning Dress, whatever the cause the result is, more and more people will find themselves in Evening Dress in the middle of the day.
Because that is the difference between a UK and a US wedding. A US wedding is an evening affair often starting at 5pm or later. A UK wedding is more often an all day event with ceremonies taking place as early as midday (or in my case 11am!).
Initially I baulked at this trend. It seemed silly to see men dressed up in silk and velvet at lunchtime. But as is becoming increasingly common, I am beginning to change my mind. A little bit. Not completely. But enough to acknowledge the pros.
And the main one is - men look wonderful in black tie. You only have to have a gander at modern red carpets to see that the winners are almost always in some form of quite classic tuxedo. As soon as you stray too far away from the classics it starts to look naff.
Black tie is largely unchanged since Henry Poole made the first “Dinner Jacket” over 150 years ago. And as the old adage goes, if it ain’t broke….
For me, the suit itself should be kept as timeless as possible.
- Either a single-breasted jacket with a single button and jetted pockets, or at a push a double-breasted 2+1 (I’m not a fan of the decorative nipple buttons but I know I am not in the majority here) with a wide peak lapel.
- Satin or grosgrain is acceptable for the lapel silk.
- The wool should be 12-15oz 100% wool barathea in either black or midnight blue (not navy). Mohair will go shiny after a few wears and anything with even 1% polyester/polyblend/acrylic will make you drip with sweat once the dancing starts.
- Trousers should be worn on the waist, not hips, and ideally with a cummerbund. Never with a waistcoat.
However, this is where the tradition stops.
The shirt and bowtie should be treated as creatively as you wish. An ivory shirt is a beautifully flattering alternative to crisp white.
I like a pleated bib, I like a Marcella bib, I love dress studs - one of the few ways in which men are encouraged to wear jewellery….
A bowtie could be swapped for a large ribbon tied in a floppy bow or a bolo tie or a bright coloured patterned silk. Go for something different every time. Black tie doesn’t have to mean all black everything.