The point of custom tailoring is to get something which is exactly right for you. Which means it might not be right for someone else. Catering to each individual taste without compromising on fit, quality and ease of movement can be tricky.
For a long time we were asked to make trousers far tighter in the leg than I was comfortable with (I blame 2000's Tom Ford for this). It would result in trousers which looked fine whilst standing but the minute the wearer sat down, they became incredibly restrictive. This was particularly common with wearers of skinny jeans. Those jeans have elastane woven into the cloth so that the leg can stretch as you move. Traditional tailoring fabrics don't. Flannels and cord will give a little over time but not fast enough to accommodate for the changes in dimensions when a body moves.
So instead we add "ease". This is the difference between your net body measurement and the measurement of the garment. Everyone likes, and depending on your lifestyle requires, a different amount. The trick is for the excess to not look excessive.
Kipper & Chalk's house style definitely errs on the side of classic rather than slim fit, but as mentioned, with MTM tailoring we are here to make your perfect suit not ours. So if you prefer a closer fitting suit there are a few tests we suggest you do before committing to a taper.
- Sit down.
Please sit down in trousers before you ask a tailor to take them in further. Your thighs and seat will redistribute themselves in their own unique way and suddenly what felt positively breezy whilst standing might now feel far more restrictive.
2. Give the cloth a bit of a tug
This will show you if there is any ease or give already allowed for in the fabric. Some weaves will have a little more flexibility than others. If you really do want a close fit then make sure that the cloth you choose is one of these.
3. Consider length
Nowadays trouser breaks have fallen out of favour. Most people are looking to have their trousers finish just hovering above their shoe for a clean crease at the front. If this is you, then have a think about what it will look like if you also have a strong taper. Short and skinny can definitely end up looking like they are a size too small. And if your cloth has a very obvious pattern, like a prominent check, it can make this even more apparent.
In conclusion, it isn’t just aesthetics which you should think about with custom tailoring. Practicality is just as important. Bodies move. So clothes must adapt with them. K&C makes clothes to wear not to watch.
But at the end of the day, it is your suit so it is your choice.