Tom - Tartan Trews

Brief:

Winter wedding with Scottish roots.

Cloth:

First Pair: Macfarlane Tartan 

16oz Pure Wool 

Second Pair: Johnstone Tartan

16oz Pure Wool

Bespoke

Tom in his tartan trousers

 


Notes:

I don't know where to begin with this one. It was such a special order. Firstly for boring practical reasons. I have always wanted to make a pair of proper trews, with no side seam to break up the tartan. This traditional cutting method means that the side seam is a straight fold instead of a curved seam so all the shape needs to come from shaping and pressing with an iron. This means it is difficult to achieve a modern cut unless working with proper, sturdy cloth which can be effectively pressed and shrunk. As this wedding was in January it was an ideal time for a 16oz wool. 

A Pair of tartan trews being prepared for cutting


<Two pairs of tartan trousers - Macfarlane and Johnstone


Secondly, because of the sweetness of the double order. The groom initially ordered just the one pair in his own family tartan. Then after a little thought he ordered a second pair in his bride's family tartan. He wore his for the ceremony, and hers for the dancing. I thought it was such a thoughtful nod to her family and a really beautiful symbol of him joining their clan. 


First kiss for a bride and groom

A bride and groom on their wedding day, descending a grand staircase

The third reason is a little more personal. The bride is one of my oldest friends and making these trousers for her groom-to-be gave me a chance to get to know him better in our fittings, something which made the big day even more special - that and the fact that they got married on my birthday so were basically throwing me a party! 

Speaking of fittings, the trews came together nicely. At the first fitting the legs needed tapering a little and the back rise needed a fair amount taking out of it but overall I was really pleased, especially as it was my first attempt at Trews. 

Trews have a fishtail back, meaning they are cut with a high waist, finishing in the small of the back and held up with braces. These were finished with Kipper & Chalk's signature block print lining in colours which complemented each of the tartans.

Tom's first fitting


On trousers cut with no side seam, the shape must come from carefully placed darts and shrinking & stretching the cloth with an iron. I was really pleased with the shape around the waist and seat, the fishtail curves nicely into the small of his back meaning they will be snug and flattering but also really comfortable to wear as they don't dig into the waist. 

 

brace top trousers

Printed waistband on tartan trews

 

These were a total joy to make and it was really special to be at their big day seeing them in all their glory. The amount of love and happiness in the church that day is a testament to this amazing couple and is surely a sign that their marriage will be full of the same. 

Alice and Tom on their wedding day

 

 

 

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