Journal

And that leads me onto arguably the men’s brand of the decade. Gucci. Oh how far it has come. The 2010 show is everything I had come to expect from the Italian brands of old. White skinny jeans, tan leather jackets and loafers with no socks. But then in 2015, Alessandro Michele was appointed Creative Director and there was an explosion. 

    Brief: Linen, which looks smart 3 Piece, Single-Breasted.  Cloth: Linen/Wool/Cotton Blend - Bateman Ogden 50% Wool, 25% Linen, 25% Cotton Lining - House Lining Navy Viscose.   Made to Measure...

Many luxury fabrics and materials had been used during the war effort, which thrifty seamstresses would use afterwards to create masterpieces on a budget. Parachute silk, in particular, was much sought after. The huge panels of parachutes made them easy to recut and the high quality, lightweight silk was often transformed into stunning wedding dresses.

I often get asked about our name: Kipper & Chalk. The chalk bit is easy, it’s a tailor’s best friend. But what do fish have to do with tailoring? According...

Brief: Linen, but not navy or sand. Cloth: Linen/Mohair Blend - Harrisons Mersolair 54% Mohair, 46% Linen Lining - The Lining Company  Flamingos. Viscose.   Made to Measure Notes: Linen...

An alterations tailor can be a wizard or a headache so do a bit of research and find a decent one. It is worth paying a premium for a job done well. I have fixed so many botched alterations over the years which means the client has ended up paying twice! Buy well. Buy once. 

The cloth you choose will also slightly determine how you can wear it. A high-cut 3 button jacket in a warm tweed can be a really smart alternative to an overcoat. Alternatively, a navy worsted will be more Pierce Brosnan era Bond. Both very cool, but very different looks. 

Last year I went to South Korea with Ralph Lauren to help kit out the US winter olympic team. As we fitted 300 athletes and coaches in the same uniform, I noticed how dramatically different their bodies were depending on their discipline.